I love the idea of mineral makeup. I've been covering my occasional breakouts with it for years. But when more and more of my clients began to attribute blemishes and larger looking pores to their use of name brand mineral powders, I started to wonder if the makeup itself was causing the problem.
The leading brand of mineral makeup lists only five ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, iron oxide, and bismuth oxychloride. A little investigation revealed that while four of these are actual minerals, bismuth oxychloride is not. It is a by-product of lead and copper metal refining made by combining the heavy metal bismuth with chloride and water. It's listed with the FDA as a “synthetic coloring additive” and is noted for its shimmery, pearlescent appearance. That shimmer is one of the reasons you’ll find it on the ingredient lists of so many leading mineral makeup brands. Bismuth gives skin that ever-so-coveted dewy glow.
Could bismuth oxychloride be responsible for my occasional breakouts and my clients' larger looking pores? The people at Suki, one of my favorite organic product lines, think so. “The powder has to be forced into the pores (hence the popular buffing technique of one leading mineral makeup line), otherwise it is capable of sliding off the wearer's face. Its heavy texture can result in clogged pores or irritated skin.”
Finding a truly organic mineral powder left me empty-handed. The most popular brands use bismuth oxychloride or the more expensive boron nitride substitute. Boron nitride is also synthetically derived, but, according to some, may be less of a skin irritant and potential pore-clogger. Perhaps the answer to my dilemma is compromise—finding the best, most natural option in an imperfect world.
Eminence Sun Defense Mineral Powder has been a favorite at Pilar’s for quite some time. It provides natural coverage while offering a sun protection factor of 30. The subtly fragrant powders are also packed with antioxidants. Bismuth is listed on its ingredient list, but further down and, therefore, in much less quantity. When I asked Eminence about bismuth oxychloride, they said, “There are reports of some people experiencing sensitivities to the ingredient, but the same can be said for most, if not all, ingredients out there.” True enough.
After all of the research, I was ready to give my skin a break from my “swirl-tap-buff” routine. I decided to completely switch from my bismuth-saturated mineral powder to Eminence Sun Defense. Within two weeks my skin felt significantly smoother and less clogged. I also love the handy applicator. Unlike the leading brands of mineral powder that spill or create huge, wasteful dust clouds, this powder goes on cleanly and neatly. My brief break has turned into a permanent switch and my skin is thanking me for it.
